Sewing Tip -- Sewing with Silk

Silk Georgette Gown

 Silk is wonderful to wear but it can be tricky to sew.

These are my favorite tricks when sewing with silk (based on experience with silk chiffon, silk charmeuse, silk dupioni, wool/silk blends and silk jersey):
(1) Be sure to have a very sharp rotary cutter and/or scissors. When I sew with silk I always sharpen and/or change blades. Silk slips. A lot. So sharp tools make precision cutting easier.
(2) Use a presser foot designed for a straight stitch.
(3) If that is not adequate, use a presser foot designed for slippery fabric. I use a plastic roller foot. I've tried my walking foot but I find the walking foot cumbersome when working with slippery fabrics.
(4) Start with a fresh needle. Sharps needles work best.
(5) Use a fine needle. I typically use Schmetz universal size 70/10
(6) If the fabric is really fussy when cutting, you can tame the silk by laying a piece of tissue paper over it.
(7) Press with LOTS of steam. Finger pressing with a steamer works better than a traditional iron. If you use a traditional iron, always use a press cloth when pressing silk. [When I forgot to do so, it was not pretty. You've been warned.]
(8) Silk likes to get stuck in the sewing machine throat plate. To avoid that, use tear away stabilizer, tissue paper or a feed fabric when beginning stitching.
(9) Use pins with caution. Pins can damage the silk fabric. I prefer clips.

Craftsy offers some classes on sewing with silk that I highly recommend:
(1) with Linda Lee (a silk blouse) and
(2) with Lynda Maynard (a dress in silk dupioni)
(3) with Nicki LaFoille (general tips)

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